Descripción de la carga mecánica soportada por los dedos en distintos agarres de escalada deportiva en expertos

  1. Morenas Martín, Jesús
  2. Sabido Solana, Rafael
  3. Leyton Román, Marta
Journal:
Kronos: revista universitaria de la actividad física y el deporte

ISSN: 1579-5225

Year of publication: 2010

Volume: 9

Issue: 18

Pages: 87-93

Type: Article

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Abstract

In sport climbing, training the flexor muscles in the fingers is a crucial determinant for performance. At present, the effect of each individual digit in different grip positions has not been fully investigated. The aim of our research, therefore, is to study how different loads supporting the fingers are affected in three typical grip positions used in sports climbing, and if exists differences between high and low level climbers. In the present study, we divided 34 expert climbers into two groups and investigated whether a significant difference existed between. Using this protocol, we have shown a significant (P < 0.05) difference exists in load distribution in the three kinds of grip analysed. Moreover, we observe that each individual finger contributes in a different way in each type of grip. We conclude that the distribution of the mechanical load in fingers differs according to grip position. We see that climbers at higher level differentially distribute mechanical load between the fingers compared with subjects at lower level.

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